In this article I would like to cover the six most common problems we run into with landscape trees here in the Sonoran Desert. Some of these problems are easily fixed but others will be with the tree all its life.
1) Wrong Tree in Wrong Place
When you choose a tree, you need to consider its mature size and shape. While a small “Christmas Tree” may look cute right next to the house, a 60ft Aleppo Pine towering over a home can be a hazard! Eucalyptus trees are another common offender.
The power companies need to maintain at least 10ft of clearance between their lines and any trees. If you are planting under wires you need to take this into consideration!
Pine Tree Under Powerline?
You can also end up with a tree that dominates the landscape because of its scale in a small lot. There are many small “patio” trees which mature at a short height and work well in tight situations or under power lines.
2) Poor Nursery Stock
When you pick a tree from the nursery, you will usually pick one that looks full and healthy, right? What else would you look for? Well, what is below ground is actually more important than what is above ground! When a nursery allows circling roots to form inside the rearing container, there is really no hope for the trees long-term survival. These circling roots will not straighten out; they will only grow in girth and eventually strangle the tree!
Check out the girdling roots on this Bookleaf Mallee! (It had died...)
Without X-Ray vision (wouldn’t that be handy?!) it is impossible to know what is inside the soil in the plant container. You need to deal with a nursery that follows best management practices for nursery stock! Each time the plant is “bumped” into a larger container the roots need to be pruned. If the nursery doesn’t know what you are talking about when you ask about this, GO SOMEWHERE ELSE!
When you plant the tree you also need to prune the roots on the outside of the root ball. With a 24” box tree we typically cut off 1-1/2” from the outside. This takes care of any recent circling roots.
3) Planting Too Deep
Trees need to be planted so that the trunk is in the air and the roots are in the ground. That is the way they are made! Rocket science? Not really, but then why do we see so many trees planted 6-12” too deep? You need to carefully look at the tree to find the place where the trunk ends and the roots start. This may not be at the soil level in the container from the nursery! It is usually indicated by a swelling in the trunk.
When we see a tree go straight into the ground with no flare to the trunk, we know it is planted too deep. Excavating around the trunk to expose it to the air may help the situation if the tree has not been in this condition too long. Long-term, having the trunk in the ground is a stressor and can cause premature death.
A 4ft Mesquite planted at least 10" too deep!
4) Improper Staking
Does the tree have stakes on it? TAKE THEM OFF! “Guys” can be used according to the ANSI standards, but only for specific objectives. Staking new trees should rarely be done, and for six months to one year maximum! If the tree has not established itself in this period of time, there are likely problems related to points #2 and #5. Nearly 100% of the trees that we clean up after storms have one or both of these two problems.
Poor little Mesquite tree staked tight! The wooden stake has already rubbed completely through the bark in several places!
We have spent a fair amount of time over the years trying to stand up and stake trees that tip over in storms. Usually after two to three attempts, we end up taking the tree out and find that it had problem #2. I now feel that when any tree (other than a very new one – in the ground for a few months) tips over, it is best to take it out and start over with good nursery stock.
A Palo Verde tree - staked forever...
Closeup of the above tree - do you think this is healthy for the tree?
5) Improper Watering
Water for trees needs to penetrate the soil to a depth of about 18”. The soil needs to dry out fairly well between waterings. The frequency and duration of watering will depend on your soil type, but the plants themselves can be an indicator!
Most of the trees here in the Sonoran Desert are both cold and drought deciduous. That is, they lose their leaves when they get too cold or too dry as a survival tactic. If you see the leaves starting to die and fall off your Mesquite in the summer, it is probably too dry. Give it a good drink! The majority of a trees roots are within the top one foot of soil directly under the canopy of the tree. There will, however, be roots extending out two to three canopy diameters from the tree! When you water, you want to cover the majority of the roots – under the entire canopy, not just at the trunk of the tree! Watering at the trunk makes that soil soft – right where the main anchoring roots are! You don’t want your tree to be trying to stand up in mud! Distribute the water out away from the trunk and your tree will be happier and less likely to tip over in a monsoon storm!
You probably WON’T see the leaves dying and falling off your ESTABLISHED Mesquite tree in the summer because your ESTABLISHED Mesquite tree probably has its roots into all the landscape plants in your yard! SO, your Mesquite tree PROBABLY DOESN’T NEED ANY IRRIGATION! Same with most of our desert trees. You can judge how much water the tree is getting by looking at how much it grows each year. If your Mesquite is growing more than a couple feet each year it is getting more water than it needs! Most are!
A new tree especially needs to have the drip system emitters spread over a fairly large area to encourage root growth and establishment. We like to put six emitters on a new 24” box tree, distributed out from 3 to 6 feet from the trunk. One of the six can be on the root ball for 30 days and then moved out. A new 24” box Mesquite tree should grow roots out 10-12 feet in all directions in 30 days in the summer, 90 days in the winter – if there is water available! How could such a tree tip over? Why would it need to be staked?
6) Improper Trimming
There are a couple basic principles that we follow in pruning a tree. First, branches need to be cut back to a fork. Second, there should be a reason to make each cut – an objective. Usually with desert trees the objectives are to raise the canopy so there is clearance under them to walk or drive, and to thin the canopy so air can move through it more freely. Another objective might be to get the branches off the roof or away from the walls of a house. When done right this can look very good!
Topping a tree (which is cutting the branches off at a predetermined height irrespective of any forks) is against ANSI standards, is ugly, is costly, and ruins the structural integrity of the tree for life! DON’T DO IT!
If a tree is “too tall” then it may be possible to make reduction cuts and lower the canopy to a certain extent. Another good choice would be to take out the tree and plant something more appropriate (problem #1).
When we start to work on a tree that we have not previously trimmed, we start by cleaning off all the stub cuts (cuts not made to a fork) that landscapers have done in the past. Then we take out deadwood. Next we make those cuts we need to make to meet our pruning objectives. Finally we work on crossing branches and branches that don’t fit in.
Stub cuts in a Mesquite tree.
While we are working, we try to estimate the percentage of the canopy that we have removed. The rule of thumb is to remove less than 20-25% of the trees canopy in any one calendar year. Younger trees can withstand percentages in the higher end of the range. If we can’t correct all the problems in the tree without going over our percentage, we do what we can this year and plan to make the rest of the corrections next year.
Usually when improper pruning has been done to a tree we have less options available when deciding which branches to remove. It is possible that because of the way the tree has been treated in the past, there may be no good options and you’ll either end up with an ugly tree or need to take it out and start over.
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The valve broke on the irrigation system and the Palo Verde received too much water and all of the leaves have fallen off. Is there anything I can do to nurse it back to health?
Bernice, Your Palo Verde should recover, but it may not get leaves until next spring. As long as the color of the branches is good (nice and green, not tan or brown) it is alive. It is fairly rare for too much water to kill a tree, but I have seen it happen! Take care, Paul
When is the best time to plant mesquite trees?
Jennifer, I like to avoid both the hottest (which are also the windiest) and the coldest times of the year. There is still time now for a month or so, then again from March through early May. We usually start again in October. We have been putting in a lot of new trees lately! Thanks for your question! Take care, Paul
We planted a Cooper Mesquite in our backyard about 8 weeks ago (early October). I watered it (as directed) daily for 30 minutes (filling well) for one week, then three times a week for three weeks, and then weekly for one long, deep soak (but not with the hose your recommended 3-6 feet away). The leaves are turning yellow, then brown, and dropping off. Too much water? Not enough? Not deep enough? Not spread-out enough? Thanks for any help (I can send you a photo.) Your website is FANTASTIC!
Kathlen, To me it sounds like too much water. Especially for this time of year. We have had desert trees killed by overwatering when planted in colder weather. The amount of water (duration and frequency) depends on the type of soil where the tree is planted. What you want is to saturate the soil down 12-18″ and then let it pretty much dry up before the next watering. You are the only one who can figure out how much and how often to water for your soil. Let it dry out and don’t water until it is fairly dry down below the surface. Your tree won’t re-grow leaves this winter, so you won’t know if it survives until next spring when the new set of leaves come out. I hope it makes it! Thank you for the compliments!
I live in a newer neighborhood (6 years old) with smaller lots and have noticed that all of the trees are really starting to get crowded. I have 2 main concerns: I am worried about a neighbors sissou tree that is planted about 2 feet from our shared wall. They have it “topped off” every couple of months and its getting big. 2nd concern is a Tipu Tipuana planted in a neighbor’s yard on the other side of me thats planted about 1 foot from the wall. Are these going to be larger problems in the future and how much time do we have before these trees take down the walls?
Amy, It is hard to say how long it will be until the trees cause a problem for the walls, if ever. It depends on how good the footings are, and how well the wall is built, the type of soil, the location of water in the area (where will the roots grow), and probably a lot of other factors. I like to give walls more room than 1-2 ft. But, since they are there, it is hard to change. Topping the tree will not make the root system smaller, it will just make the top of the tree weaker. Keep an eye on the walls and at the first sign of trouble (cracking), talk to your neighbor. Thanks! Paul
We just bought a house in Phoenix and the mesquite in the front yard is a mess. Looks as though it was 15′-20′ tall at one time but is now only 10′ tall. One of the neighbors said there a heavy frost last winter and the tree was damaged. One half of the tree is fine and still growing, but the other half of it was butchered and cut back severely. Where it wasn’t cut back to the trunk are bare limbs and no growth. A local nursery said to feed it and there would be new growth. Is there any hope for a tree where half of it has been overpruned?
And if you are interested, I will send some photos of this poor tree to add to your collection of mangled messes.
Sam, Yes, send some photos so I can see how bad it is. There is probably not much hope, but I would like to see it. Thanks! Paul
Thanks, Paul. I sent some before & after shots to paul@sonorantreesvc.com
Sam, I don’t have that email set up, so if you can send to pkaufman@emypeople.net that would be best. sonorantree@gmail.com is my backup. I’ll give you some feedback when I get them. Take care, Paul
How about Willow Acacia trees that are growing up crooked and slumping over? How do I help them grow straight?
It is often hard to fight a trees natural tendencies. Willow Acacia trees usually grow fairly upright. If yours isn’t growing upright, perhaps reduction cuts could be made back to the forks that are going in the right direction? Temporary staking or splints can sometimes help. Sometimes we must adjust what we expect out of the tree and learn to enjoy the way it wants to grow!
I planted a Chilopsis Linearis back in 2006 and now it’s only as tall as me 5’4″. Two years ago it looked dead, few leaves and fewer flowers. Last spring I gave it Epsom Salts twice and it looked much nicer. This year I did it once and it has lots of leaves and flowers. I’m thinking the problem is caliche or circling roots. The only way to find out is digging it up (and killing it), but as long as it’s alive it will be appreciated and loved. The blooms are a gorgeous pink/purple. I can send you a photo if you’re curious. What do you think could be the problem? It should be a full size tree by now.
Yes, could be root problems! A root crown excavation would be in order!
we are considering putting a mesquite tree indoors, is this feasible/possible/notverysmart?
To have it indoors I think you’re going to have a challenge providing it with an environment that is suitable. The root systems are VERY invasive (as in – under the slab, up through the toilet wax ring, and down the sewer pipe). Most of the Mesquite species will mature so big that you’re going to have to have a gymnasium to hold it. With very careful trimming, etc, you might be able to make it a bonsai, but I think it’s going to be tough… Thorns could be an issue…
We planted three mesquite trees about three years ago. They have become well established in the yard, however, one of them just decided to eject all of its leaves (it is mid June) over about a three day period. The branches are still pliable and “green.” I have changed nothing over the last year and am at a loss for what is going on. I presume that the tree has encountered some form of stress which needs to be corrected. Any idea what the issue may be? I would like to try to save the tree!
Mesquites, like many desert trees, are drought deciduous (lose leaves when too dry). Have you checked to see that the emitters are not plugged in the area of the tree? After 3 years, they should be well enough established to not need special tree emitters if there are shrubs in the area… What else is around? Also, check to see if the root flare is visible – are they planted too deep?
First, I really appreciate the input and help troubleshooting.
The struggling mesquite is planted in a flat area with no patio wall within 10-15 feet in any direction and is the eastern most tree in the three we planted. The neighboring two mesquite trees (planted westerly have nice green leaves). I did recently plant 2 ground plants in the area (none closer than 4′) from this particular mesquite about 6 weeks ago. There are three emitters for this mesquite tree, each are about 2ft from the trunk of the tree, I verified that each as the proper flow, and they do.
I have not pulled back the gravel, but I do not see a root flare, it is possible that the tree is in too deep.
Should increase the amount of water to this tree? Any other input would be greatly appreciated.
Best,
P
You might try just giving it a good, thorough soaking with a hose – something like 12 hours on trickle, move it around under the canopy several times. If it is too deep, that could cause death, but not usually that quick…
We created a soak hose watering circle hose using a few plastic plumbing parts. We planted in late April and placed the circle at the otter edge of the canopy. We want the roots to seek out and grow out to support the tree. Should we create a second watering circle or move the current one farther out to the new edges of the canopy?
Tanks for the advice.
Kirk,
I think the goal would be to remove the inner ring, but not right now. I would add a ring on the outside, but run both for a while. Then this winter you can probably get rid of the inner ring. Take care, Paul
We love Mesquite Trees and would like to create a patio in our yard with a Mesquite tree coming out of the center of it to create shade. Since we have not started the project yet, we’d like to plan it properly so that our tree will be healthy down the road. Do we plant the tree first and give it time to mature before we install the patio pavers? How much open space at the base the tree should we allow for proper watering? How do we layout the pavers taking into consideration future watering as the tree matures and the roots hopefully spread out?
Thank you!
Hey, I just saw this comment – sorry for the delay! Watering of Mesquites should be out toward the edge of the canopy, at least until they get established. After that, if there are other plants in the yard, it might be possible to cut the water to it entirely. I would think about leaving a space about 4ft diameter for the tree to sit in, with no pavers there. From that point, you could lay pavers in concentric rings which could be removed as the tree matures. Put in the irrigation and lay your pavers right over top! As the tree gets big, you could always water it a couple times a year (hot spring before any rains come – May, June?) by putting a sprinkler on and wetting all the pavers. Be warned that the roots may lift the pavers and create un-level areas. Those are my thoughts at the moment…
Paul I have a question – we just bought a new mesquite tree and they planted in our front yard (desert front) — they advised us to water the first three days 15 – 20 gallons of water and then once every 10 days – don’t you think this is too much water? Also, I have heard that the roots can get very deep – how wide do they get and has this ever been a problem for anyone? It is around 15 feet from the house and a couple of feet away from the City water shut off. I am wondering if we made a mistake putting it where we did (although we did check for pipes,etc.) Thanks for your help.
I think that is a little excessive on the water, especially with the temperatures we are having now! As long as the soil doesn’t stay saturated it should be ok though. Mesquite roots can go a long way, but the roots will only grow where there is oxygen and water (usually not too deep, as with most trees). I don’t know what kind of mesquite tree you got, but they range in mature size from 20-40ft tall and wide above ground, so it will likely grow out over your roof (which probably isn’t a problem). The roots may go under the house, which may or may not cause a problem. Being a couple feet from the water shut-off is a bit close, but shouldn’t really be a problem unless there is any kind of leak or seepage. So, it might not have been the very best location but will probably be ok. If the conpany that planted the tree didn’t root prune it or got it from a nursery that didn’t follow industry standards (most of them), then the tree might not last long enough to cause problems! Take care, Paul
We live in Las Vegas and we had a 24″ boxed Palo Verde professionally planted last June. We watered it throughout the summer and into the fall to get it established. It was growing very nicely. During the winter months we didn’t water it very much and we did have a few days with night time temps in the mid to upper 20’s. Now, in late January we looked at it and the leaves have turned brown and are falling off, also the main branches and part of the trunk are turning brown. What would be causing this? Can the tree be saved?
Thanks
Deb N Guy
Deb,
Sometimes when there are dead brown leaves on the tree, it is a sign of too much water. I have had trees die when planted in the fall and they were overwatered. The branches that are brown are dead on your tree. If enough of it is green, it might pull through but it doesn’t sound good! The temperature should not have been a problem. Another possibility would be Palo Verde Root Borers – usually they go after larger trees, but if they got into a little one it would be a goner. Nothing you can do about them, because once you see the damage it is too late. I would wait until it warms up and see what happens, hopefully it will pull through! Take care, Paul
We live in St. George (Southwest Utah) and just moved in to our new house. In late fall, we asked the landscaper to simply complete the watering system and install the lawns and not to plant anything until the warmer weather. (planted in last week of November) We moved in Jan 31, 2014. He told us the best time to plant was late fall. The three Palo Verde’s and 1 Mesquite appear to be in serious condition. One of Palo Verde’s does have a green trunk up to about 9 inches from the ground. Our landscaper says that it was an act of god, once in a lifetime winter that caused the problem. Do you think the Palo Verde that still shows some green could survive? What recourse is “normal” for home owners to take with the landscaping company?
Gary, I have had some trouble with desert trees planted very late in the year being killed by overwatering. I am not saying that is what happened, only offering it as a possibility. The Palo Verde is only alive where it is green. Since it is killed that far back, the roots may also be dead or mostly dead. It sounds like the best thing would be to replant this spring. I am not sure what your landscaper’s guarantee is, some offer a year warranty, some offer a 30 or 90 day warranty, some offer none at all. It sounds as if the landscaper does not want to accept responsibility so you will probably have a hard time getting your money back. Perhaps you should ask about getting a tree at his cost for a replacement – that would save you a lot! Take care, Paul
Admin,
One of the Palo Verde trees was “trimmed” by a tree co. hired by the electric power co. to avoid electrical wires.
The tree is old and had a large limb cut off that apparently was cracked. However, the new trim job has left most of the limbs and leaves facing North. The tree looks unbalanced but the real concern is whether or not this tree with few limbs and leaves on one side would blow over in a strong wind. Don’t know what the root system is like and if this is a potential accident waiting to happen.
Thanks.
SJ
SJ, no way to know what the root system is like – there are many trees grown with bad root systems from the nursery! Looking unbalanced doesn’t necessarily mean it is going to tip over. Winds can do amazing things! What is in the “target area”? If there are important/valuable/fragile things that could be hit if the tree goes over, it might be best to take it out. Take care, Paul
GREAT POSTINGS!!!
I was wondering what is the best way to transfer some naturally growing mesquite trees? I have an area in my backyard of naturally growing vegetation and a couple of nice mesquites are growing that I would like to transplant to my front yard. It’s a new house and I don’t have any plants in the front yard and I would like to move 2 or 3 of the small (3-5 feet tall) mesquites. What would be the best way to remove the trees? How much of a diameter do I need to dig around the tree for removal? How far should I keep the trees when putting them in the ground? What’s the best way to prep the new soil and hole? How frequently/amount should I water the newly planted trees? Obviously a ton of questions so any info you can give me is appreciated! Thanks!
Paul, The roots on these desert trees are very extensive, so they are difficult to transplant. If you try, you should get a rootball 2 to 3 ft cubed on the 3-5ft tall trees. They have to be re-planted with the root crown at grade. Chances are that they will die after all your effort. Nursery grown trees will live, and the cost is not that great. Take care, Paul
We live in Las Vegas and we had two Mesquite Ash professionally planted last June. We watered it throughout the summer and into the fall to get it established. one of them was growing very nicely the other never got green. During the winter months we didn’t water it . Now, in April they still look dead and the leaves have turned brown and but not falling off, Can my trees be saved?
Denise
Probably you should contact the company that planted the tree and have them determine what happened. It does not sound like they are alive.
Hello,
I live in West Covina, CA which is along the San Gabriel Mountain foothills, 20 minutes east of Pasadena.
In my front yard I have a 9′ sago palm where I would like to plant either a thorn-less mesquite or palo verde tree. First-which tree do you recommend as a canopy to my homes entry? And second, can you tell me if the soil will be harmful to the new tree once the sago is removed? The sago will be dug out by hand and transplanted elsewhere not killed and ground out 🙂
Thank you very much
John,
The ground should be fine for another plant. The sago is valuable, so definitely re-use it or try to sell it! The mesquite will make a better canopy, just don’t plant it too close!
Take care,
Paul
My Palo Verde died and I am removing the dead stump. Will the roots regrow or must I dig them all out before I plant a new tree?
Pat, If the tree died, the roots will also be dead and will not regrow. They will not interfere with a new tree, unless you happen to hit one while digging the hole. I hope your new tree does well! Paul
I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE IS SOMETHING WE CAN SAFELY SPRAY ON OUR PALO VERDE TREES TO KEEP THEM FROM FLOWERING. OUR FAMILY,
INCLUDING TWO DOGS, HAVE REALLY BAD ALLERGIES AND THESE FLOWERS ARE ONE OF THE WORST BUT WE DO NOT WANT TO LOSE THE TREE AS IT IS OVER FIFTY YEARS OLD AND WAS PLANTED WITH THE BUILDING OF THE HOME. THANK YOU.
There are some growth regulators that might minimize the flowering, but I have seen negative impacts on the tree’s health when these are used. So safely, no. Take care, Paul
Hello,
I just planted a Palo Verde tree for my Mon in Victorville California. I purchased a 8 foot tree at a local nursery a couple of weeks ago. It looks very nice and green. Our soil is sandy. I just installed a drip system for the back yard trees and included the Palo Verde on the same line with one .5 GPH drip emitter. I run a timer at 1 hour every two days. The system is running fine but I just noticed the lower very small twig like branches are turning light brown at the ends. The upper branches are still very green. I dug about an inch into the ground and note a very light moisture in the soil. It is dry at the top inch. Am I watering too much possibly? It sounds like these Palo Verde trees are usually watered 1/Week at most – depending on soil dryness?
The time between watering, duration of watering, and rate of water application depend on the soil in your exact location. The idea is to get the water to penetrate about 18″, so the area under the entire crown of the tree is moist to that depth. Then, the soil is supposed to dry out fairly well (not bone dry!), then apply water again. You will have to experiment with different intervals, and watering times, to see what works in for your tree. Some digging will be required to see what the water is doing and how the soil is doing. At least here, it is pretty hard to overwater this time of year. Take care, Paul
I have a 3 year old chilean mesquite in my backyard which is planted in the center of a large area of artificial turf. The tree is healthy and thriving, but there are a few big surface roots pushing up the turf. I am wondering in the surface roots can be cut back or if I need to have the turf company come back out and add more crushed granite to raise the ground level to smooth out the ground around the roots.
For the tree’s health, the best thing would be to leave everything alone. Cutting the roots could damage the tree. Covering them up could damage the tree. If you just have to make it flat there, use large gravel that will let air movement take place so the root crown does not stay wet. Hope this helps!
I live in Palm Springs, CA. We have Palo Verde trees in containers.
Until this week, we have had a very mild summer.
It is suddenly very hot and I noticed the Palo Verde trees had leaves that had closed.
Yesterday, I watered them very thoroughly. Now the leaves are open.
Did the leaves close because of the heat? Do I need to continue with my new plan to water deeply and thoroughly daily?
Most of the desert trees including Palo Verde trees are both cold and drought deciduous. So, if they get too dry or get too cold they will lose their leaves. I am not surprised that the leaves closed though I have not observed it myself. Losing the leaves will not harm the tree, but if you want it to look nicer, you might want to go ahead and water it regularly so the leaves stay on. Take care, Paul
I planted a 15G Palo Verde last spring. I the tried to remove the stake but the tree could just not hold itself so I let it the way it was, hoping after a few months the tree would gain enough strength.
Here we are, a good 4-5 months after planting this lovely tree and it is still too ‘weak’ to hold itself. Is it normal? How long should i expect to wait before taking the stake away?
Thanks,
Marie
Marie, Typical nurseries grow trees that way so they look big and tall. Unfortunately they are also spindly! You may have to stake it for a long time to get it so it supports itself. Make sure that there is “slack” in the system so it can move (trees grow strong in response to movement, so no movement = no strength). Hopefully it will one day support itself! Take care, Paul
I live in Palm Springs. In October of 2013 I planted two Mequite trees. I was away this past week and came back to one of them completely toppled over, the trunk is still in the ground. Is this because I watered it too much and it grew too quickly? Is there a way for me to send you a photo of the “situation”? Thanks so much.
You can send a photo to pkaufman@emypeople.net and I will give you my opinion from what I can see. Usually the trees blow over from having bad root systems created at the nursery. Water at the base of the trunk (making mud, not hard soil) can make the situation worse. Usually they are not worth trying to save.
Wanting to plant a Palo Verde in a standard city lot in Imperial Beach CA, near the water main coming in (within five feet) and the sewage line out ( with 3-5 ft) the land scape is drought tolerant, mixed clay soil: home discussion is Let’s do it no worries; OMG stay away from the water sources the roots will invade.The house and the landscaping will fit the tree perfectly; front is drought geared, back yard has peach, persimmon, satsuma, lime, etc..
Any input? Not clear what the roots could do…
Desert trees have roots that seek out all available water. Are there, or could there eventually be leaks in the pipes? If so, the roots will exploit them and could cause problems later. That said, you will likely be ok. Get the tree planted as far from the lines as practical (5ft instead of 3ft), that will help.
Just moved back to AZ. We now have a Palo Verde with a number of small branches (1 in dia.) growing directly out of the base of the trunk. These branches all have small leaves and the leaves and branches are very green. The rest of the tree has no leaves and is a much lighter green. What is the appropriate course of action in this situation to restore the tree? Should the branches at the base of the trunk be removed, or is it possibly too late for the tree? Thanks,
Dan, I would probably take off the lower branches and then see what it does next spring. If the top looks bad or gets tan/brown it is dead. Take care, Paul
I figured out what was going on… The previous owner had three very small wires holding the tree up(?). They never got removed over the years and cut into the tree about 1/2 inch deep, 2 feet above ground. Basically the tree above that line was being choked off completely. I have removed the wires as best as I could. There are still two pieces of rubber inside the fork between two of the three main branches. the tree has completely grown around them and I cannot get them out. I trimmed the lower branches and removed the wires. There is a deep circle in the trunk where the wires were. I will see what happens now and may have to eventually remove the tree. At least I know that I have tried to bring it back and that it is not dying due to my ineptitude. Thanks for your response!
Dan, that is a pretty common problem, believe it or not! Taking the wires off now may work – if it’s not too late. I think you’ll know by spring. ANSI standards are for no stakes at planting unless absolutely necessary, and then for 6 months to a year max. What happens is somebody plants a tree (landscaper or nursery), stakes it, and never comes back. The homeowner doesn’t know what to do or doesn’t notice it. The hoses grown into the forks seem to be ok, we often can’t get them out. The wires all the way around are the biggest problem, and if you got them off, that is great. Take care, Paul
I just found out that roots have grown right into the bottom of my toilet. I’m in San Diego. I think it was the scheffelara that is easily 15 feet away that did this. I’m in the process of repairing and removing the tree. Would a palo verde be less likely to invade like this? It just about completely blocked the flow and the root was easily 4 feet long and destroyed the flange on the pipe. Treating the tree roots with 41% glyphosate.
Desert plant roots should be more invasive (water-hunting) as anything. Palo Verde roots may cause problems. Of course, if there is no water leaking out, no roots will seek it out… Hope the repair works!
We have 2 Palo Verde trees that have had borer problems in the past. They are both far apart from each other (about an acre apart). we have been treating them with a systemic treatment monthly for about 1 year and they seemed to be getting better. One tree was planted 2 years ago and the other 3 years now. The trees look healthy except for the trunk which is starting to look like it is affected by borers again and there are several 1 inch holes at the base of the tree indicating the possibility. We have checked to make sure we are giving them the right amount of treatment. They get watered once every 6 days for 12 minutes. The trees are affected by woodpeckers but the bark is starting to show separation from the inner layer of the tree again in many areas of the trunk ( the farther down the trunk the less damage) and the tree is starting to show much dark gray scaring. The systemic also treats for all the insects that may damage the trees so we are at a loss as to what is going on with the trees. The canopies are healthy but the we are concerned about the profuse sapping and trunk damage. Can you please tell us what is going on? Should we change to another product? We have been using Bayer Advanced 12 month Tree and Shrub Protect and Feed, Concentrate II Dual-Action formula. We were told that it would not hurt the tree to apply it monthly. Are we treating it too much or what? WOuld you like pictures and are we able to send them?
The insect pests we have here in the southwest (except for the Palo Verde root borer, which you don’t have) are only attracted to stressed, dead, or dying trees. I have not had a tree in nearly 9 years that needed pesticide like this. Your trees are under stress – I do not know what stress, and they can’t tell you! Are they planted at the proper depth (root crown at grade)? Is your irrigation water soaking in 12-18″ every watering, and is the soil drying out fairly well between waterings? Did the trunks get sunburned from a change in light levels due to overtrimming or a change in orientation at time of planting? Much detective work is needed, but the borers are not the source of your trees problems, only a symptom.
why after 3 years of the same routine would they just now start to react? The nursery planted the trees 3 years ago. They have not needed to be pruned in that time. The canopies are well rounded and branches spaced evenly. if they are 14 inches in circumference would they need that much water? Every 6 days for 12 minutes should be sufficient maybe too much?. have they become to toxic because of the excess pesticide? We will cut back on the systemic but what do we do about the birds and why the sapping? is there a way to send you a picture and/or do you know an arborist we could contact to come out and check them out?
The answers to your questions are perhaps unanswerable. The trees are stressed by something, that is the problem, not pesticides, borers, birds, etc. A photo is not going to show very much. I do not know where you live, but with a zip code I can possibly give you an arborist’s contact info.
Hi,
I have a huge mesquite tree that is growing one sided above my yard (the neighbor kept cutting down the branches on his side, but I liked the shade it provides, so I let it grow on my side). Now it’s roots are starting to show above ground, and I was wondering if that means I have to cut it down as it will start destroying the landscape. It already seems like it is lifting my grill…Is there any solution to this?
Thank you for taking the time to educate us!
The roots on the surface will not harm the tree. Mesquite have very aggressive water-seeking roots and can cause trouble for patios, foundations, etc. There are some root barrier products, but they are fairly expensive to install and have mixed results as far as effectiveness.
I am in California (coastal) and have a Palo Verde (Desert Museum). It’s about 5-6 years old and this is the second year that the tree has flourished greatly from the winter rain only to have its new growth covered up by powdery mildew. This results to stunted leaves and flower buds that never open which eventually fall off leaving a sad looking palo. I’ve just noticed that bark isn’t as bright and lustious as usual and there are a few black spots on the one of the trunks.
I see you are in Arizona and that this post is from years back. But, do you have any advice or suggestions as to how to treat and better care for my loved palo?
Thanks for the note! We have such low humidity here that mildew and fungus aren’t ever problems for us. I wonder if spraying with a fungicide would take care of the problem? If you are able to come up with a solution, I would like to hear!
I just had a very large, older African sumac tree removed. I am 30 mi. south of Tucson, and had a Desert Museum palo verde planted near the same area. The tree “specialist” planted it way too deep, and argued that is the way to do it. It is about 8′ tall and seems to be a nice one, but the trunk is only about 1″ diameter and is tied to a 2″ pole. Finally got them to bring it up, but I still worry, cause it’s sunken down a bit since last week when it was replanted, and I’m still not seeing the root flare. I am not at all sure how often to water it, and how long. How should it be mulched…with bark or rock? At first it was not staked but noticed leaning to the north, and had them stake it to keep it straight, now it’s staked on the opposite side also. What are your thoughts on this tree?
Martha,
We see this all the time! Unfortunately. The tree was not grown at the nursery in accordance with best practices (ie. staked and trimmed up aggressively to make a tall, weak trunk that looks “big” to consumers). The mulch in the box breaks down over a year or two and the tree will settle 3-4 inches even if the hole was not overdug at the time of planting. You’ll probably have to do a root crown excavation to find the flare. The tree will probably have to be staked for way too long until it’s strong enough to stand on it’s own. DON’T trim any suckers or low branches off it for as long as you can stand it – they will make the trunk more sturdy over time. Chips right out of the chip truck are supposed to be the best mulch, probably bark next. DON’T put mulch against the trunk – you should allow about 6″ between the trunk and the mulch (at run the mulch about 4″ deep all the way out to the drip line of the edge of the canopy).
Hope that helps!
Paul
We bought a 24 inch boxed DM palo verde last fall. It was put in the ground Nov 2018 with 2 stakes. After the winter rains and strong spring winds, we’ve loosened the ties to allow for more sway. We noticed it is now wanting to lean forward due to the uneven weight of the larger branches. Meaning, its a bit unbalanced due to mother nature or pruning at the nursery. Its a single trunk tree, approx 12 ft tall, with the canopy starting at about 5 feet. The trunk diameter is 2 inches. Ist straight coming out of the ground, but starts to lean slightly around 3 ft height. Will this be a problem long term? Can’t see how we could correct this with pruning – there is one large branch (1.5 inch diameter), which is what’s causing the pull in one direction. We planned on keeping in staked but loosely tied through this winter. Thoughts? Have you seen an unbalanced tree do alright, assuming the roots are strong?
A 24″ box Palo Verde should be about 1 to 1-1/2″ diameter and probably not more than 8ft tall, shorter would probably be better. Multi-trunk better yet. The stock you got was not grown as a desert tree and will likely be unstable for a long time. Unfortunately you will have to keep it staked (loosely) until it is strong enough to support itself. I don’t know how long that will be. If the nursery grew it like that, I really wonder what the root system is like. It may be ok, but it has a lot of things going against it!
I live in a new home community in Palm Springs that I helped design. We included a Palo Verde tree on each of the lots. Now the Homeowners Association will no longer allow these trees (along with Ficus trees). They claim the Palo Verde tree roots are too invasive of the underground plumbing and sewer lines. Do you know if this is the case? I do know that ficus have a bad reputation and understand banning those, but the Palo Verde seems so adaptive to the desert.
Any other suggestion for a relatively fast growing tree that may have less invasive root systems? (They won’t allow Mesquite trees either). Thanks
Palo Verdes don’t seem to be as aggressive as Mesquites, but they are desert trees and they seem to do what they need to do in order to get water. One thought is that if there is no leak in a pipe, the roots won’t try to get inside. So, making sure joints are properly glued can go a long way in avoiding problems. The “desert museum” hybrid variety of palo verde has issues with bad forks and has been outlawed in some communities. Other varieties (regular blue or foothills palo verde) don’t have such issues and shouldn’t be that much of a problem
You will be hard pressed to find an arborist that likes ficus trees! So, I’m glad they are not allowed.
Will the roots of a desert museum palo verde uplift a concrete sidewalk. If yes, is there a recommended distance between the tree and the concrete slab?
Peter,
There is certainly a possibility that a desert museum could lift a sidewalk. They can be large trees and they grow quickly. I don’t know of a recommended distance, but the more the better. If the tree is within 2-3 feet I think there could likely be problems. If 10 feet you would be a lot safer. BUT, it would depend on the root structure of the tree from the nursery, where there is water in the landscape, soil conditions and probably a lot of other factors. Root barrier products have met with mixed results and can be expensive, so I wouldn’t bother. Just give the tree as much room as possible.
Take care,
Paul
Our seven year old Sonoran Emerald Palo Verde has been doing great until this year. I have noticed the south half of the canopy is filling in and greening up nicely while the north side has no growth and the tips of the small branches are dry and brittle.
The north side was also the side the power company trimmed las fall.
Any thoughts? Should I just wait and see or call an arborist?
Mike,
I think I’d wait and see what happens in April when the tree starts growing. Not sure what the problem is, but by they you might be able to figure it out. If it’s small stuff I don’t think it’s a major problem!
Take care,
Paul
We just moved to the Tucson area. We have a fairly large enclosed patio area, but most of it is bricked. We have a 20’x15′ area where we’d like to plant a tree for shade. There is a retaining wall on two sides. We’re worried about invasive roots damaging the wall or raising the pavers. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Maureen
Maureen,
I think you do have a cause for concern about roots damaging your pavers – probably the wall isn’t as much of a concern as long as it is well built with a sufficient footer. I would look for a tree that matures at a smaller stature, and hence a smaller root system. I thought that possibly you could make a circular cutout in the pavers with concentric rings that can be removed as the tree gets larger.
Hope that helps!
Paul